Traveling Northern Peru
Discover Gocta, Kuelap, Cordillera Blanca, the Amazon & the Marañón
May 2, 2009
Peru has three landscapes: la selva (the jungle), la sierra (the mountains), and la costa (the coast). Because of these different regions and 28 different climates, the country is incredibly diverse: in agriculture, landscape, fauna, flora, and culture. And with the remnants of various ancient civilizations sprinkled all around, Peru is an overabundant feast for the adventurous spirit.
La Selva: Portal cities to the Amazon rainforest: Tarapoto and Iquitos, are wild get-aways from the cold capitol city of Lima. The streets are alive with activity: vendors of all things, rickshaws, music, and people. Dripping with sweat, you'll be grateful for the overwhelming selection of ice cream and popsicles, filled with jungle fruit you never imagined existed.
Boats traveling down the Amazon River and into the jungle are easy to arrange online or in any of the street side tour shops. In order to get the best deal, book in person. Trip lengths vary from an afternoon to several weeks. Make sure you get out and see the incredible array of native birds, fish, butterflies, and if you're lucky: a pink dolphin or a sloth.
La Sierra: East of the jungle lay vast mountain ranges, home to both sports enthusiasts and the ghosts of hidden ancient cities. Cordillera Blanca lies near the city of Huaraz, and is the highest mountain range in the world outside the Himalayas. Like most adventure-loving sites outside the US, everyone is welcome to commit acts of seemingly masochistic “sport” with little experience necessary. So even if you’ve never been above sea level, get ready to be hoisted up jagged glaciers, climb snow capped volcanoes or one of 34 peaks over 6,000 meters, or hurdle yourself on skis down an icy mountain.
Seemingly less dangerous, but no less fun, is dodging the donkeys and fast moving, filth-spewing cars in the narrow streets of Cajamarca. The city has exploded in recent years since the town literally found itself atop a gold mine, which has brought money and what the locals believe to be a lot of mischief to town. You can get your fix of internet cafes, discotheques, and casinos, while taking time to soak in the Incan hot springs, peruse the Baroque churches, and discover ancient rock gardens like Cumbemayo.
The road from Cajamarca to Leymebamba is so bumpy that you won't likely be able to close your eyes; rather, you won't be able to peel them from the adjacent abrupt drop-offs and rock slides. The road passes treacherously through the Marañón Cañon, the so-called Grand Canyon of Peru and one the country's rarely seen jewels. After awhile, you'll become accustomed to the ride and mesmerized by the plant life, geologic formations, and the wide open sky.
Leymebamba is a peaceful town, tucked away in the cloud forest and filled with jovial locals and hidden mummies. A walk outside of town of will magically transport you into a landscape reminiscent of Lord of the Rings. And if you find a guide in one of four restaurants or bars in town, he may lead you to the hidden cliff-side tombs which conceal sleeping mummies. An excellent museum also displays artifacts and mummies of the Chachapoya and Inca people who lived in the area 600-1,000 years ago.
Chachapoyas, a city named after the pre-Inca people who inhabited the area, lies just north of Leymebamba. The town is reminiscent of Cuzco 40 years ago, and is the tourism hub of the north due to its proximity to Kuelap and other ruins. Chachapoyas is also near natural wonders like Gocta, the third tallest waterfall in the world.
Kuelap is an ancient stone city of the Chachapoyas, or Warriors of the Clouds. It rivals Machu Picchu in size, beauty, and archeological fascination, but has the added charm of actually feeling like an ancient ruin. You can find yourself peacefully alone without hundreds of tourists milling around and snapping pictures with their phones.
La Costa: Peruvians flock to the northern beaches every summer for the best surfing and sunshine. Máncora, Punta Sal, and Los Órganos are favored by the locals, while John Wayne and Ernest Hemingway preferred Cabo Blanco.
Trujillo and it's sister beach town, Huanchaco, are a nice stop en route from Lima to other northern cities. Trujillo has a beautiful plaza de armas, incredible architecture, a university, and several art galleries. And don't miss Chan Chan, the ancient capitol city of the Chimú civilation.
If you’re headed to Peru, consider traveling north from Lima to avoid tourists and to get a richer (while cheaper) experience.
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